Publications

“Small Talk Couloir” bidearekin, Fred Caloggero eta Joseph Hobbyk Mantok 1 mendiaren bigarren igoera sinatu dute. Alpinistok ere, igo gabe zegoen mendi bat eskalatu dute. Charles deitu diote.

Des couloirs de glace, un peu de mixte facile et des rochers recouverts d'une fine couche neigeuse, le tout gardé par un théâtre de champignons de neige. Voilà comment Hobby décrit Borealis Face, un itinéraire de 600 mètres à 85°, en glace et en neige…

Fin avril, les Américains Fred Caloggero et Joseph Hobby ont ouvert Small Talk Couloir (1 200 m, M4R 70°), une nouvelle voie sur le Mantok I (2 834 m), en Alaska. Après quoi, ils ont réalisé la première ascension d'un sommet qu'ils ont baptisé le mont Charles (3 054 m) par la voie nommée Spectre (1 700 m, 80°), majoritairement descendue à skis.

In 2023, Fred Caloggero and I queued up with other climbers for our first expedition together in the Alaska Range, but the mountains had other plans. With minimal weather windows and a very precipitous season, we flew back south empty handed. Luckily, we’re pretty stubborn and 2024 would prove to be a different story...

The next day, on April 20th, we climbed an easterly couloir/ice hose south of the Reisenstein on an unnamed peak. We started in the afternoon for safer conditions and simul-soloed the first portion of the route. We pitched out the climbing as it got harder, beginning with an AI5 ice hose in a corner with a few mixed moves at the exit. The real crux of the route was a…

Joseph Hobby y Zach Lovell son dos amigos y guías estadounidenses de 34 y 30 años respectivamente. Esta primavera fueron a trabajar a Alaska una vez más y, tras completar la expedición con su grupo de clientes se tomaron un tiempo para intentar algún objetivo personal. El resultado fueron dos nuevas rutas…

Time is often an unhelpful metric when weighing the value of a trip in the mountains. Even a few days can gift the richest of experiences when partnership, conditions, and luck line up. From April 18 to 21, Joseph Hobby and I were fortunate to do two new routes on back-to-back days in the Cathedral Spires of the Kichatnas, during a brief period of good weather amid a stormy spring. On April 18, Paul Roderick of Talkeetna Air Taxi deftly pioneered…

Zach Lovell and Joseph Hobby have climbed two previously unclimbed peaks in the Alaska Range near Mount Russell on the Dall Glacier with one of them including a ski descent. While both of these routes are certainly…

“Zach, I just learned that Mason Stansfield died in a crevasse fall in AK.” I read and re-read the message on my satellite phone. Aside from the steady purr of a white gas stove, there was a somber silence in our kitchen tent. Four days prior, my two climbing partners and I had flown on the same plane as Mason and…